How to Find Adventure in Cappadocia Turkey

If Istanbul is the height of human religious and artistic expression, Cappadocia Turkey is Mother Nature’s crowning achievement; A rock canvas carved into undulating volcanic tuff and then refined over eons with the brush stroke of erosion.   The final masterpiece is a landscape of never ending veins of rock cliffs and forests of peculiarly graceful mushroom capped stone pillars, teetering but never falling.   For the religious, there’s certainly an intelligent chaos to its beauty, and for others, a valley begging to be explored.

History has also played an important part in shaping this mesmerizing land. Within the valley itself, the Persians, the Romans, the Byzantines and the Ottomans have each left their indelible mark on this region. Alexander the Great himself strode across this very valley. Going to Cappadocia is returning to the dawn of time. For the curious, each twist and turn in the valley can lead to hidden Byzantine churches, centuries old frescos, and dwellings dug from the rocks themselves which are still currently inhabited today.

For all travelers to Turkey, Cappadocia is a mandatory stop on any itinerary. From backpackers to families, you’ll see them arriving in droves, with most coming from Istanbul. The Cappadocians have embraced tourism fully. Travel to the region is unbelievably easy, with sight seeing circuits labeled clearly and tour groups a stone throw away.

So is Cappadocia Turkey still a destination for the stalwart adventurer?   Absolutely!

Arguably, the popularity of Cappadocia has taken some of the mystery out of the region and for those seeking adventure, or for something more off the beaten path, they may find this to be difficult. But it would be a mistake to avoid Cappadocia for this reason, or any reason for that matter, as it still offers much for the thrill seeker and the intrepid explorer.

Personally, we had an awesome time in Cappadocia. Although we weren’t quite blazing new trails, or unearthing undiscovered Byzantine ruins, the experience is up there as one of our best in Turkey. Crowds at the main sights are unavoidable, but with all there is to do, and the different ways to go about doing them, you can still carve out an experience all your own:

Goreme Is The Best Place To Stay:

There are a number of towns with accommodations in and around Cappadocia, such as Urgup and Uchisar, but few have the same charm and opportunity to stay in cave houses like Goreme. Primarily a backpacker town, as opposed to the more upscale Urgup, Goreme is a perfect budget option to set up your base and explore the surrounding regions. In fact, I highly recommend it as you’ll meet like-minded adventurers looking for the same thing, and whom may very well point you in the right direction. Geographically it’s also central to most places you’ll be heading too.  As a personal recommendation, we stayed at the Shoestring Cave Pension where we got a private room for 35 TL. It’s definitely cheaper than the options closer to the center of town, but you’ll be impressed as it looks like a private oasis once you get past the unassuming entrance.

Travel Cappadocia Independently:

Do as much on your own as you can. Full-day or guided organized tours work best if time is limited, but like most tours, you’ll only be scratching the surface. There are a number of operators in Goreme, however I can’t vouch for any of them since I never actually used them.

For the most part, don’t bother with Tour operators. Cappadocia is unbelievably easy to travel independently. Maps with the 4 main tourist routes are available everywhere, dolmuses (minibuses) crisscross all across the valley, and hiking trails are in abundance. In our case, we opted for a scooter rental. Roads are in great shape, traffic is virtually non-existent, and there’s plenty of parking.   The best thing about hiring your own transportation is the adventure and experience in-between destinations. The region is full of hidden secrets, paths and viewpoints off the main tourist circuit.

Sights and Activities to do Independently:

You certainly can’t travel all the way to central Turkey and not see the sights and experience the history that has made it so popular. There will be crowds, but you can find solace in the fact that you can take as much time as you need to suck it all in.

Here are my recommendations for sights and activities you can do on your own:

Goreme Open Air museum & Tokali Kilise – Not far from the center of town, the museum is a must if you’re interested in Byzantine history. You’ll get to see a number of beautiful churches carved from the rock faces.

El Nazar Kilise & Sakli Kilise – A quick stop between Goreme and the Open Air Museum.

Uchisar Castle & Pigeon Valley – a 2 hr walk or 10 minute scooter ride SW of Goreme. This Hilltop castle is hard to miss. A great place to watch the sunset or begin a hike through the Pigeon Valley below.

Underground Cities – Approximately 15 to 21 miles south of Goreme are massive multi-level underground cities of Kaymakli and Derinkuyu. Built to hide and protect persecuted Christians from the Persian and Arabic Armies, the cities go down to a depth of about 60 meters.

kaymakli

 Kaymakli Image Courtesy of Frank Kovalchek

Devrent Valley – also known as Imagination valley for its Dr. Seuss like rock formations. Located between Avanos and Cavusin, the valley is a fun and interesting side trip. Look out for the Camel.

Guzelyurt – Depending on if you’re doing the full trek from Ihlara village to Selime, you might want to stop in at Guzelyurt and see Monastery Valley and Antique City.

Image Courtesy of Alexander Naumov

Hiking Ihlara valley and Güllüdere (Rose Valley) Hike – Turkey has some amazing hiking opportunities to see fairy chimneys, churches and gorgeous vistas. Probably the most well known is the Ihlara valley hike towards Selime Monastery. It will take about 8 hours one way if you decide to take the full trip from Ihlara valley to Selime so make sure you leave your car/scooter at the end, and figure a way to get to the trailhead, or vice versa.

Road Trip to Neighboring towns Around Goreme: Visit Mustafapasa, Soganli, Avanos, Cavusin, Kayseri, Neveshir, Urgup, Uchisar to name a few. Each has their own character, and a piece of the historic mosaic of the region

Mustafapasa

Urgup

Uchisar

Soganli

Images above courtesy of Graeme Churchard, Bernard Gagnon, Minamie’s Photo and Bernard Gagnon

Additional:

Hot Air Balloon and Horseback Riding -Most activities can be done independently, but balloon rides and Horse rentals you’ll have to have a guide. Unfortunately we were on a bit of a budget, so we passed on them both, but by all accounts from other travelers, the experience was well worth the money.  Here’s a photo to give you an idea what to expect:

Image Courtesy of Graeme Churchar

This isn’t even close to being an exhaustive list. The sights and activities are boundless, with many not making the list, and others not listed anywhere. The most amazing thing about Cappadocia Turkey, is that there are still nooks and crannies to be discovered. Let curiosity lead the way, and you’ll come out with an adventure unique and all your own.

How to Find Adventure in Cappadocia Turkey

Trust me - Visit Stonehenge Without the Tour

Another reason I love London, amongst the many mentioned in I ♥ London, is that it is just a step, hop, and a jump away from some historic sites. One item on my bucket list was to visit Stonehenge. From London there are a couple of tours that you can take and trying to fit in as much as possible in a short period of time, I opted for the all day Windsor Castle, Stonehenge, and Bath tour.

The most anticipated part of the tour for me was Stonehenge, but we spent the least amount of time there so it was a bit of a killjoy. On top of that, as soon as we got to Stonehenge it started to rain and all we had time for was a quick loop around the Stone Circle and some quick photos to document the trip before racing back to the bus to keep from getting completely drenched. I know that rain is quite common in England, especially during the month of October, but it was sunny in the morning and we were hopeful that the sunshine would continue. It was funny because Mike specifically said to me, “I really hope it doesn’t rain when we get to Stonehenge because that would really suck”, low and behold it rained the moment we got to Stonehenge. LOL. I guess we were lucky to even be able to walk around the entire circle because when the weather is wet they usually close off the grassy section.

Having read a lot about Stone Circles, I was really excited to see the stones but the experience was “meh” for me. Obviously, it had more to do with the weather and the tour’s scheduled time allotment for Stonehenge than the historic site itself. I mean the stones are magnificent and I can appreciate why it’s a World Heritage Site, but it’s not just about the physical site and the scenery. The story behind how the stones were moved and the placement of the stones around the circle is just as important to me. This is definitely a do-over trip for me.

The next time I visit Stonehenge, here’s what I would do differently:

1)  Give myself more time: I think my biggest mistake was trying to do too much in one day and for some reason Stonehenge got the short end of the stick and we were only able to get a cursory visit. With some places that is fine, but I wanted to learn a lot more about the mysterious monoliths than the 15 minute summary we got on the tour bus.

Next time, I would rather rent a car and drive to Stonehenge myself. Sure there are other “go directly to Stonehenge” tours that you can take but the problem is someone else has predetermined how much time you can spend at the Stone Circles and that is something I don’t want to repeat again. There is something to be said about not being handcuffed to someone else’s schedule and having the freedom to explore on your own. There is more to explore than just the Stone Circles and really depending on your thirst for information, it seems that the Visitor Centre is worth visiting. You can also get an audio tour (which I had no idea existed) that can provide information that allows you to appreciate Stonehenge that much more. To be honest, the audio tour wouldn’t have been practical for us because of the time restriction, but it is a good thing to know for next time.

Also, visiting Stonehenge on my own will give me the time I need to just take in the moment and enjoy the beauty.

2)  Bring a tri-pod: it was extremely hard to capture nice pictures without having a bunch of people in the shot, so I recommend bringing a tripod to take a bunch of pictures and then piecing them together (refer to our Travel Hack #3).

3)  Bring an umbrella (this will protect you from the rain or sun) and proper footwear, so that you are protected from the weather and can enjoy the beauty of Stonehenge whether it rains or is extremely hot.

Since I didn’t really get my Stonehenge fix, I guess I will just have to go back for a proper visit!

Trust me - Visit Stonehenge Without the Tour

Travel Hack #6: How To Find Water

Last week I introduced a survival hack about how, through evaporation and capture, drinking salt water was a very possible life-saving survival skill in extreme circumstances. But for most, the likelihood of being stranded on a deserted island or clinging to a rubber dingy in the middle of the ocean will be astronomically rare. A more realistic scenario is that you’ll find yourself lost in the backcountry, fresh out of water, determined to chew whatever liquid you can muster from the bark of the tree. You wouldn’t be completely mad in trying, but you have a better chance sucking the fillings out of your teeth than getting any water that way.

Even though you can’t see it, water is all around us: it’s in the ground, the trees and the air. The difficulty is knowing how to find water and then being able to extract enough potable water where your hydration is greater than your dehydration. If you’re like me and always have your LifeStraw or Iodine tablets with you, let me be the first to say – You Rock! Preparation is akin to survival and you should pat yourself on the back. But what if there isn’t any free flowing streams or lakes around you for miles? In order to be able to filter or purify water, you need a water source. Since water dowsing is an art that few of us will ever be well versed in, we’ll have to resort to more helpful techniques in finding a water source.

This is a hack that may one day save your life. And considering California just recently instituted its first-ever mandatory water restriction, you never know when finding fresh water will come in handy if the crisis creeps over to your neck of the woods.

So how to find water without having to dance half-naked around a bonfire, or drinking your own pee (yuck, don’t do this!)?  Give the below survival tips a shot.

How to Find Water In the Wild:

Transpiration Technique:

Transpiration is where moisture in plants evaporates through openings on the leaves into the atmosphere.   With a little ingenuity, it’s possible to capture the vapors and turn it into potable water once it condenses. It’s a small amount, but it is water:

Materials/Equipment:

1. Clear plastic bag or similar


2. Leafy Tree branch


3. String, or even tree/plant fiber


4. Rock


5. Container

image courtesy of HowStuffWorks

1. Wake up early in the morning


2. Put the rock inside the bag, so it creates a dip in the bag. This is where the condensed vapor will collect.


3. Place the bag around the leafy tree branch


4. Tie the bag opening tight around the branch


5. Now wait


6. Water will begin to collect throughout the day


7. Open the bag and pour out the water into your container.  Unlike the image,  don’t poke a hole in the bag.  You may need to do it again

Below Ground Solar Still

Similar to the solar desalination in my post, drinking salt water, you can also create a below ground solar still to extract moisture from the soil. The idea here is that with the heat from the sun we can increase and capture the moisture in the soil as it evaporates. Similar to the transpiration technique above, the condensed water vapor will be potable.

Materials/Equipment

1. A shovel or digging tool


2. A bowl or container to collect the water


3. Ample amounts of green foliage


4. Waterproof sheeting


5. Rocks

Image courtesy of HowStuffWorks

1. Find an area that gets a lot of sunlight


2. Using the shovel, dig a bowl shaped hole deep enough where the soil is moist and wide enough to place your container in


3. Make sure the deepest part of the hole is flat enough where your container won’t fall over


4. Throw the foliage into the hole alongside your container. Foliage will increase the amount of water collected.


5. Cover the entire hole with the waterproof sheeting, anchoring the edges with rocks, soil or both


6. Place a small rock right above your container. This will create a dip for the condensation to travel down and drip into your container


7. Now wait for your soil flavored water

Collecting Dew

This water hack is a bit strange, and often overlooked by most survival tacticians. But believe it or not, dew deposits are on everything and you can collect quite a bit of water in a very short time. Dew is atmospheric moisture condensing faster than it can evaporate. Only thing is, you’ll have to do this early before the sun vaporizes your stash.

Materials/Equipment

1. Dew collection area such as grassy area, or trees with big leaves


2. Absorbent material like a cotton t-shirt or rag


3. Cup or container to hold the collected water

This technique also works if there was rainfall the night before. Also, be aware that even though the dew itself is clean, where it lands may be polluted or have bacteria. So, if you’re able and have the equipment, boil or filter before drinking.

Image courtesy of Dylan Parker

1. Wake up early morning and find an area the sun hasn’t yet reached


2. Take absorbent material and wipe everywhere you see dew


3. Wring it into your cup


4. Drink and enjoy

Survival priorities are in this order:  Shelter, Water, Fire, Food.  Knowing how to find water is paramount to you living through a dangerous situation.   Know the tricks, know the hacks, and you’ll be prepared for anything.

 

 

 

Travel Hack #6: How To Find Water

I ♥ LONDON, ENGLAND

The first time I went to Europe I did it solo style with a big yellow backpack in hand.   This was your typical “backpack throughout Europe and get my fun in before I start my real grown up job” type of trip. I realized, that, out of all the cities I visited (the list included Paris, Cannes, Monaco, Nice, Amsterdam, Barcelona and Rome), I love London the most. Looking back it was hard to explain why: I was staying in a hostel room with twelve other people, the room was infested with mice, when I woke up from a nap on my first day in London I had my own Friends’ version of ugly naked guy stripping in front of me (not what I expected to see upon opening my eyes), the value of the Canadian dollar was zilch compared to the British pound and everything cost twice as much so I really had to stick to my daily budget, and the food was meh. Despite all this, I love London! The experiences I had and the people I met made London one of my all time favorite cities.

Given my soft spot for London, it was no surprise that London was my destination pick for our European trip. Mike wasn’t too excited since he is more of a Dubliner and always saw London as a transit hub and a “stop over” to where travelers really want to go. Determined to change his mind, I wanted to give Mike a different perspective of London.

Here are ten reasons why I love London:

1) Shopping: there are so many amazing stores to visit in London, from historical department stores such as Harrods and iconic fashion houses like Burberry to more recent fashion brands such as Reiss. Yes, Princess Catherine gets a lot of her dresses from Reiss and the white Nanette dress was instantly sold out after Kate Middleton, as she then was, wore it in her engagement photos. Being a fan of Princess Catherine’s fashion style (um . . . really who isn’t?), it was a must do on my list to stop at the Reiss store in Knightsbridge (I was told this was the location she frequented most, but unfortunately I didn’t see her). Having bought more than my fair share of Reiss dresses, I got extra attention from the salesgirl and she gave me her personal email address and told me to send her an email if there were any other dresses I wanted and she would be more than happy to ship them to me. She even found the Nanette dress for me, but given that it was two sizes too big I decided it was not worth paying a small fortunate for the dress only to have to pay and get it refitted.

There are a lot of streets in London, such as Oxford Street, Bond Street, Regent Street, and Carnaby Street that are lined with stores and unique boutiques where you can find something for anyone. For men who want a nice (and expensive) custom suit, go to Savile Row.

For all you shopaholics who are looking for a good deal head to Bicester Village, which is a designer shopping outlet about 45 minutes from London. The best way to get there is by bus, but just keep in mind that it is an all day venture as you only get picked up and dropped off at certain times. Also, make sure to check out the website because they sometimes post deals and you can always find VIP discount vouchers on the Internet.

2) Sites: there is no shortage of things to see in London and there is something for everyone:

• If you are a museum buff head to the British Museum or Natural History Museum. There really is no shortage of museums in London and you can probably spend a full week going to all the museums.

Museum of Natural History

Victoria and Albert Museum

• If you prefer to get your fix of Royalty head to Buckingham Palace, Kensington Palace or even the Tower of London.

The Victoria Memorial, which sits in front of Buckingham Palace.

• If you prefer to focus on the arts then the Tate Modern and National Gallery are necessary stops.

Exhibit at the Tate Modern.

• If you are more interested in seeing the politicians then head over to the Palace of Westminster and Big Ben.

• For those who want to pay homage to religious aspects or even attend a worship service, go to Westminster Abbey or St. Paul’s Cathedral.


• Go to the London Eye to get a different perspective of the city and a great view of the skyline.

• If you want some time to rest and relax find a spot in Hyde Park or St. James Park.

View in St. James Park.

You will never get bored in London. I promise you that!

3) Theatre: I like to see live theatre and there are so many great shows playing in London. Popular shows such as Phantom of the Opera, Les Misérables, the Lion King, and Wicked are usually always playing. Depending on when you go, you can even catch shows that are hard to find such as Miss Saigon.

Having watched some of the shows in London and then seeing them again in Canada, I have to say there really is no comparison. I don’t know if it is due to the location, the actors, or the fact that shows in London are performed in theatre houses with better acoustics but . . . when in London go see a show!

It is probably best to get your theatre tickets ahead of time, especially for the more popular shows that sell out every night, but if you are unable to pre-book there are many different ways to get last minute discounted tickets, such as the tkts booth in Leicester Square. Remember to check out the face value of the ticket and the seating plan to make sure you get a good view.

4) History: London is a city that has more than 2,000 years of history. There are catastrophic events that have made it into London’s history books, such as the plague, the Blitz during World War II, and the Great Fire of London, all of which have shaped the city into what it is today and makes it that much more interesting for tourists.

View from the Millennium Bridge, a good way to reflect on London today.

London is also where gentlemen’s clubs, such as Brooks’ and White’s, were originally created and made popular. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t support establishments that don’t accept women, but I do find the purpose and membership of these places intriguing.

The architecture in London is fascinating and it is not uncommon to see buildings that are over a hundred years old. In Canada, such buildings are rare and would get special status as a “historical building”. I couldn’t help but wonder about the piece of history each building holds and the secrets that are hidden in the walls. I guess that is a normal feeling when you are walking through the streets of a city that was once the epicenter of the world.

5) Energy and Vibe: with a population of more than 8 million and millions more visiting each year, London has a unique energy that is difficult to explain. Commerce, education, the arts, fashion, and music – all elements that make London a global centre also contribute to the city’s liveliness. From Piccadilly Circus to Knotting Hill (made famous by Julia Roberts and Hugh Grant) to South Kensington, each neighborhood is distinct and has something unique to offer. Even cloudy skies and the constant rainy drizzle can’t dampen the pulsing London life and the feeling that runs through you.

The buzz during the night in Knightsbridge.

South Kensington.

6) The Royals: the chances of me meeting Prince Harry, Princess Catherine, and Prince William (preferably in that order) are that much greater in London than anywhere else. In no way would I balk at the idea of meeting the Queen, but the younger Royals are who I prefer to rub elbows with J.

7) Accents: I love the British accent and I honestly think that anyone who has a British accent sounds that much smarter, even though I sometimes have no idea what they are saying because the accent can be quite thick. Some of the words and phrases they use, such as rubbish, jumper, crikey, knackered, “taking the piss”, and dodgy, are quite fun and always puts a smile on my face when I hear them.

8) Pub Grub: I know the English aren’t known for their culinary cuisine, but the food has changed immensely since my first visit to London and the Indian and Thai cuisine are just as good as anywhere else.  I had a chance to try some ramen and it was delish!

Enjoying some ramen at Shoryu Ramen.

If you prefer something more traditional, the pub grub is spectacular in London. My go to is the fish and chips because who doesn’t like deep fried battered fish with fries on the side?

9) People: Despite the fact that most Londoners avoid eye contact while riding the Tube and make no effort to converse with you, but really who wants to strike up a conversation with a stranger while packed in a train like sardines were personal space is non-existent and you are close enough to get the weather and not the news, I have always found Londoners to be friendly and helpful. Every time I needed directions or suggestions on where to eat, the people I asked were friendly and provided helpful tips. Also, I found that Londoners were always more than willing to take a couple of seconds out of their busy day to snap a photo for an eager tourist (yes, like myself).

10) The Tube: the Underground, known as the Tube to Londoners, makes it extremely easy to get around London. With 11 lines (Bakerloo, Central, Circle, District, Hammersmith & City, Jubilee, Metropolitan, Northern, Piccadilly, Victoria, and Waterloo & City) and 270 stations, the system is overwhelming at first but all you really need is some patience and a Tube map. After your first trip you will realize how easy and safe it is to take the Tube and there will be no hesitation. It is also the fastest and most affordable way to travel around the city. Not to mention, you get to see many different personalities and tourists at Tube Stations and on the Tube itself. This isn’t always a good thing though, especially during peak hours when the crowds are big and people are impatient but it just adds to the experience.

Tube stations are everywhere in London, making travel easy.

If the Tube is not your thing, you can always take the bus (there are many of those too), hop in a cab (the black cabs are iconic but quite expensive), ride a bike (the Barclays Cycle Hire make it cheap and convenient to rent a bike), or walk – our preferred and favorite way to see a city.

I think I accomplished my goal and was able to get Mike to see and appreciate a different side of London. Although I still don’t think this is a city he would choose to visit on his own but . . . baby steps my friends, baby steps.

And that’s why I love London!

 

I ♥ LONDON, ENGLAND